Framing a Cold Room

Hi Stan;

I just built a new house last year and am in the process of framing the basement. Could you give me some info on framing in a cold room? I thought you once commented on this topic before on your show and gave some particulars on elevated door location, ventilation etc. I really enjoy your show when I have the chance to listen (I work every other weekend and can't always listen).

Thanks.
Jan

Jan - Because of the new house construction these days and the use of insulation on the outside of the foundation, there is likely no cool wall from the inside that can be utilized by framing a small room to capitalize on the temperature change when isolated. Most of the cold rooms of days past would be built into a corner thereby the need for only one wall and a wall including the obligatory insulated door.

What can be done now is to use the inlet of your fresh air to the furnace pipe by a 'T ' that you can direct into the cold room but not interfere with the necessary cold air as needed by the furnace burners. Or if you have a dryer vent already installed, 'T' off that with a aluminum pipe directing it to the lower part of the cold room. If either of these methods is used, insulate the pipe to carry the cold air, and install a damper or butterfly closure on the room end for control of the cold air entering the small room. This method of cooling is adequate and can be used in any part of the basement using at least one concrete wall.

A decent size of room, depending on your needs would be eight by six or six by ten feet being the outside dimensions. Use general framing and use two by six studs and plates as you then have the added insulation factor. Don't forget the same for the ceiling. Vapour barriers go on the warm side of the wall. A good practice is to have a floor of slatted two by six on sleepers that would raise the floor level and encourage better air circulation and ease of cleaning. Into the double wall door, add a small vent screened window about eight by sixteen inches that a slider of plywood can be used to open or close from the Outside of the c. room. This is very important as it will aid in circulation and discard the often build up of fumes from veggies.

Consider a light that can be wired in the room, with a switch on the external wall. Counters or bins should be removable but shelving can be attached to walls and a space of an inch or so between the shelf edge and the inner wall is useful for the important air movement. Sturdy metal brackets like library shelves are best. In time the hard goods like shelves, floor and bins should be taken out to be given a good wash with bleach to control the organisms associated with such keeper rooms.

One other consideration would be to install a power receptacle to run a small fan which becomes necessary when the humidity increases with a full room, leave room for the wine bottles that are easily turned and made from clay as drain tiles and can be stacked. As a final touch, paint all your construction materials with a good penetrating wood stain.